A couple of rustic Italian ristoranti delight the crowds of Wallingford, Madison Valley, and West Bellevue with fresh, constantly rotating antipasti, contorni, housemade pastas, and mains—some rarely seen, like tortellini in brodo, and a stunning casoncelli with pancetta and amaretto crumbles—and some classic crowd-­pleasers. Earthy studies in farmhouse minimalism with plank tables and wrought-iron chandeliers, the places are constantly slammed, owing about equally to the affable neighborhood ambience, the reasonable price tags, and the hard liquor.

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