There may be a drawbridge out the window, but don’t go assuming the draw is the bridge. Ponti is a Seattle classic, now with original chef Alvin Binuya back in the kitchen. From the casual bar or one of the elegant butternut rooms, diners look over the breezy patios to the Fremont Bridge and drifting ship canal traffic. The menu colors Northwest classics with Asian and Continental hues, as in the salmon (always a good bet here) done with, say, a green curry ratatouille. And the grilled, marinated, unbreaded calamari, lively with olives, tomato, and watercress, make you wonder why everyone else insists on battering the poor cephalopods.