Former Canlis chef Greg Atkinson applies his considerable pedigree to the French bistro canon in a gently Craftsman dining room in downtown Winslow on Bainbridge Island, a walkable half mile from the ferry dock. Rather than get inventive, Atkinson’s kitchen deploys flawless execution to remind you why these dishes—brown butter trout, steak frites, spectacular pate—became classics in the first place. Cocktails and service—also lovely.